By TP Big Bro
After experiencing the wonders of the Taste of Melbourne, I was excited to once again dig into the culinary goldmine and be dazzled by the gastronomic magic at the Taste of Auckland festival. As someone who is trying to conquer Auckland's Top 50 restaurants, to have the heavy hitters of the local culinary scene concentrated together was a victory in itself. It evoked the feeling of productivity, similar to when Sunday night whizzes by but I've caught up with my mates, hit the town, gone to the gym, done the washing, the errands, the shopping, everything on the to-do list.
Having learnt to dismiss the "go late to miss the crowds and get free stuff" theory after it backfired at Taste of Melbourne, I hit the Sunday 11-4pm session at around 1:30pm. That way, it wouldn't be peak feeding, but there should be enough food to last the day. The theory worked, but to be honest, it was probably more of a "it fitted best in my day" convenience rather than a stress-tested Sun Tzu military strategy.
Unfortunately, after avoiding the first pitfall, I fell for the other trap. Hook, line and sinker. The bank account was shaking it's skinny head, but the full, fat and over-fed belly was having a good ole time. Unlike the Melbourne ticketing currency, the Auckland crowns were like thin poker chips that came in small see-through money bags, and with the Sky City casino standing tall in the backdrop, I quickly got the torn feeling of excitement mixed with knowing I was about to burn some serious cash. After some internal rationalisation and the silent chanting of "it's been a hard year" (that old chestnut!), I have effectively given myself a license to splurge. So with the sun unexpectantly shining, the live music lifting the energetic ambience, I slowly lost myself in the smokiness and smells of the foodie wonderland ...
Similar to Melbourne, I managed to taste 8 dishes in total (6 mains, 1 dessert, and I was so full but still had crowns left that I spent it on a cocktail). So counting down from lowest to highest, here were my findings.
8. Saffron gin cocktail (Cocktail exhibitor)
This was an outstanding cocktail (it would be a top 3 or 4 contender), but as it is a drink I am excluding it. Also, it was at the end of the day, and I couldn't remember what was in it, and didn't take a photo. I actually wanted to spend my last crowns on the Clooney's Lemon & Elderflower Tart, but I was so bursting-at-the-seams full, that I couldn't walk straight let alone eat any more. The tartiness and zing of the lemon would have pressed an eject button in my stomach. I have been foolish in the past, but today I was in control and disciplined. Instead of more dessert, I was intrigued by a cocktail stand, and decided to try their Saffron gin. It was the cool refreshing hit I needed. There was some cherry liquer, but I can't find it listed in the guide.
7. South Island Salmon, smoked scallop, iced fennel, orange & nasturtium (Clooney) - 12 Crowns
The dish sung with freshness. It was clean but slightly bland as if it was missing something. I would however, say it won plate of the day. And by that I mean, literally, plate of the day - it was paper but looked like a food tray with entree cutlery. Extra brownie points for presentation
6. Simon Gault Alaskan King crab & prawn in jalapeno crème fraiche sauce topped with tuna wafer (Euro) - 10 Crowns
I was sold by the name. As in, name of the dish, and name of the restaurant. It was probably the dish I wanted to try the most, just by looking at the program. When I got to the Euro stand, besides the two beautiful young cashiers, it was empty. I was surprised. I was also surprised when the dish came out, as it looked much different to what I imagined. The flavours were good, and it was creamy and rich. By the time I ate it though, I was pretty much overloaded and creamy was the last thing I wanted to taste.
5. Crispy wild boar with heirloom beets, apple & hazlenuts (The Grove) - 12 crowns
This dish made me feel I was eating strange but tasty pork and mushroom balls at a Sunday Yum Cha session. There was a chewy elasticky texture which was actually pleasant, combined with a crispy crumbed texture on the outside. It was different, the flavours married together well at the end, and it made me think "a successful progressive dish".
4. Yellowfin tuna , Salmon and Snapper 'New Style' Sashimi (Soto) - 12 Crowns
In hindsight, I should have asked about the "new style", because I kind of didn't get it (Soto are known for their traditional cooking but with modern presentation). As confused as I was, the combination of flavours was harmonious and beautiful. I felt clean and refreshed after eating it, and just wanted more.
3. Gameford Lodge King Cole Duck Breast, pickled apple, maple & mustard (Clooney) - 12 Crowns
This dish was a mythical creature. It didn't actually register on my hit list after reading the menu, but after speaking to several other foodies, the Clooney Duck was repeated that many times that I marched over to see what all the fuss was about. It didn't disappoint. The duck was flavoursome and beautifully cooked, and combined with the other components of the dish, it finished off spectacularly. Loved how the toasted nuts lifted the dish, and the melting sherbety malto was a good touch that didn't distract the dish.
2. Valrhona chocolate pavé, cookie crumbs and strawberry cream (The Grove) - 8 Crowns
Almost equal first, but a very close second place. One bite and I could tell it would be have been the standout dessert of the festival. Dark, rich, smooth and textured. Ticked all the boxes. The strawberries were a refreshing palate cleanser, allowing continous hits of deep chocolatey goodness. Mmmmmmmm..... give me the recipe.
1. Teriyaki Chicken infused with Manuka honey (Soto) - 12 Crowns
Absolute stand out of the day. One bite, and it was a serious reminder of how chicken should be cooked. "Ten-da, jooci and swet" said the Japanese cashier. He was absolutely, without a doubt, 100% right. It was amazingly tender, packed full of juices and masterfully flavoured. I wanted more, more, more. That's even when I found a long curly hair in it. If it wasn't of the hair, I would have licked the plate. Easily the longest queuing line I saw all day. Also loved how efficient it was, in true Japanese style. When I ordered, they gave me some origami and told me to wait in the barbeque line. The smell made me stand up like a grizzly bear and drool with my claws out. I then exchanged my cute origami for my food. Great system, great dish, great service and dish of the day.
Winning restaurant: Soto Japanese Restauranthttp://www.soto.co.nz
13 St Marys Road
Ponsonby 1011
+64 (9) 360 0021
p.s Yes, the very first picture is heir to the Dilmah fortune.
p.p.s If you have a "taste-of" city event that you love or think is worth the travel, I am more than happy to hear about it
Edamame. Points for being the first I’ve seen using sea salt flakes. Nice presentation but because there are flakes, there's an inconsistency in spread over beans, but it's preferred as there’s always a salt hit when you least expect it.
Shumai (chinese inspired steamed prawn dumplings with ponzu dipping sauce). As soon as you lift the lid of the dumpling steamer, it smells authentically chinese. Unlike the traditional chinese dumpling, this one is beautifully wrapped. The firm smooth consistent texture paired with the ponzu dipping sauce, gets this dish a tick of approval.
Panko rice balls (soy bean, bamboo & shiitake mushroom rice balls with wasabi aioli). Deliciously coated in crunchy panko crumbs, first bites are well balanced with the wasabi aioli.
Kingfish Jalapeno (hiramasa kingfish, yuzu soy, thin slices of jalapeno chili and coriander). In each mouth full, I'm given the pleasure of individually tasting each ingredient while simultaneously experiencing syngeries of the flavours working together. It's light, fresh and has two key items which complement the kingfish - a refreshing lemony tang and a thin slice of jalapeno to add just the right amount of spice to elevate the flavour but not overwhelm.
Miso butterfish (sweet miso marinated butterfish grilled and wrapped in bamboo with sweet pickled radish and den miso sauce). It's a well cooked dish, soft enough to break apart easily but hard enough to maintain texture. The deep rich miso sauce complemented the fish well and was interestingly creamier, sweeter and richer than any miso sauce I’ve ever tasted.
Beef teriyaki (grass fed beef sirlion cooked medium rare on sautéed shitake and buckwheat with matsuzaka sauce). It was just like a standard steak but the point of difference was the edamame beans sprinkled throughout dish and the rich, authentically japanese flavour of the matsuzaka sauce.
