Molten - New Zealand

by TP Big Brother

I've been travelling on business for the past couple of weeks, and have been meaning to post for a while now. I was in Auckland last week (currently in coastal Otago), and I have been trying to experience the city through its restaurants. But with so much selection and so little time, I was at odds as to where to start.

On the 3 and a half hour plane trip from Melbourne to Auckland, I strategically planned my time carefully to take advantage of the plane's on demand video. I watched a movie and spent the remaining time selecting New Zealand documentaries, hoping to uncover some hidden gems I could visit and experience.

One particularly good travel show was the New Zealand specific B-guided, hosted by the gorgeous Sierra Reed. Sierra visited a restaurant called Molten, and I decided to write the name down after she described the interesting taste combinations at the restaurant. It was also a recognised restaurant, with a laundry list of awards, including Cuisine magazine's Best Neighbourhood restaurant award.

I managed to get a table on the night I make the reservation. The first thing I notice as I arrive at the restaurant, is that it is a lot smaller than it was on the show.

I am led to a small and intimate side table, right next to the kitchen. I am sitting on a high kitchen table and stool, and I start to get excited. I recall the b-guided special and think that Sierra must have sat on one of these chairs. I look to my left and see the chef in action.

Chef-owner Michael Van de Elzen

I eagerly look at the menu. The waiter explains the starters called the "untouchables". Molten has been operating for around 5 years, and these starters have been so popular, they have been permanently kept on the menu. I order the untouchable Waikanae crab.

Waikanae crab. Spinach & ricotta linguine w pernod cream & crunchy shallots, $20.50

The dish had a very creamy, almost carbonara like taste that was quite subtle. While I couldn't really taste much crab, the dish was flavourful and nicely seasoned.

For the main, I order a salad and the recommended game fish dish.

Red salad. Radicchio, baby red chard, roasted beetroot & a vine tomato $7.50

Game fish with ham risotto $34

The game fish really made the dish. It was an amazingly meaty fish that had a beautiful soft texture. I liked that it was a heavy fish but it had a very delicate flavour that managed to come through, despite the strong flavour of the risotto. The risotto carried a very smoky and salty taste, which reminded me of cheap vacuum packed ham from Woolworths. But the game fish and salad combined captured my tastebuds and overall, I would say it was a successful dish.

At this stage, I was full. I felt slightly underwelmed and decided to look at the dessert menu. Then I saw it.

The famous dessert.

Immediately I forget my bulging stomach and ordered it.

Valrhona chocolate torte. Whisky ice cream, tobacco syrup and raw cocoa runouts $16.50

This was one of the signature dishes of Molten and highlighted the Molten approach to flavour combinations. The tobacco syrup was adored by the chain smoking Anthony Bourdain, who dined at the restaurant on his 2005 NZ tour for his Les Halles Cookbook. The syrup I'm told, is a caramel which is later infused with tobacco leaves. When I tasted it, the syrup was sweet with an almost alcoholic taste, followed by a very light bitter note from the tobacco. The torte was bursting with deep flavour from the dark french chocolate which expanded across a chewy biscuity and melting texture. Too often am I let down by a signature dish, but I can say with full confidence that it truely can be classified as the restaurant's signature dessert. In fact, it was one of the best desserts I've had all year. To finish off the meal with that dessert elevated my Molten dining experience to a new level.

I later had a chat with co-owner Belinda Van de Elzen. Belinda, who happens to be a trained chef, was very lovely, waxing lyrical about the restaurant and the world of food, while viligantly monitoring the front of house. She told me the tobacco syrup was inspired by a recipe she found in Ireland, and that Anthony Bourdain stunk up the restaurant's private room with cigarettes (The NZ government banned confined area smoking years before Australia). I was inspired by her plans for a cooking school, and a restaurant in the country, and after a record $12,000 Friday and 5 years of dedicating everything to the restaurant, she was starting to get tired and worn down. Her passion for good food showed when she not only welcomed me back next time, but she also recommended other good restaurants, such as Sidart.

Highly recommended if you are in Auckland.

Open for Lunch: Tuesday – Saturday from noon. Dinner: Monday – Saturday from 5.30 till late.
422 Mt Eden Rd, Mt Eden, Auckland, New Zealand
Ph 09 6387236
Prices are in NZ dollars